Author Archive
Looking Back to 2010, Ahead to 2011
Portillo, Chile - August 2010
This is the time for lists. Kids write all-I-want-for-Christmas lists. Adults make New Year’s resolution lists. Journalists publish “Best of” or “Predictions” lists. My list is a mixture of all the above, a look at wine news and trends from past year and what might be ahead in the year to come.
1) Riesling rising
A year and a half ago we couldn’t move a bottle of Riesling. Now we can’t keep them in stock. What happened?
About two years ago, wine writers began touting the beauty of Riesling. It’s always been popular in Europe but never really caught on in the States. Rumor was it was too sweet.
Riesling is made in a wide variety of sugar levels and styles ranging from the rip-out-your-tongue no-sugar/high acid to the off-dry fruity and finally the sublimely sweet dessert wines. Today people are more willing to experiment, and once they taste Riesling they find they like it.
In 2011, Wine Insiders will be offering Maddalena, an off-dry Riesling from Monterey, California. We think you’ll enjoy it with grilled fish or poultry and spicy Indian or Asian inspired dishes.
2) Still in love with Malbec
Prices are rising for this popular wine from Argentina which has taken the place of Merlot as the soft, easy drinking red.
3) Green all over
From the growers in the vineyards to the people supplying paper for the bottle label, the wine industry is embracing sustainability. This isn’t a new trend, but it continues to pick up steam.
4) Sustainable, organic and biodynamic vineyards are going strong
Each of these terms describes a different level of compliance. Learn more about the various levels of compliance from one of the best in the industry, Benzinger Vineyards http://www.benziger.com/Green-Farming.
5) The Democratization of Wine Media
Not long ago, a small group of wine critics said everything that needed to be said about wine. Thanks to wine bloggers, now you can read a wide range of perspectives, often at no cost. Check out this list of wine bloggers: http://alawine.com/wine-blog-rankings.html (blog links change so some may no longer be accurate)
6) Wine tweets
Twitter tastings are hugely popular. It ranges from a single person twittering about how she likes one bottle to Whole Foods testing five bottles live on Twitter from coast to coast.
7) Fruit bomb backlash
These days there’s a conversation, well maybe it’s an argument, between people who enjoy high-alcohol so-called fruit bomb wines and those who prefer the lower alcohol, more acidic food-friendly wines.
The big, fruit forward wines have levels of alcohol around 15 percent or higher. Fruit is picked very ripe, resulting in greater sugar content. The lower alcohol wines are typically under 14 percent, with average around 12.5.
It’s entirely a matter of personal taste. Check labels of wines you enjoy and see which style you prefer.
8) Is it regional or is it varietal?
More than ever, when people talk about wine they talk about where a wine is from. You might like Chardonnay from one part of the world, not so much from another part of the world.
Over the course of the year Wine Insiders club members will experience the most popular varietals from different regions . Our selections will include Cabs, Merlot, Malbec, Zinfandel, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Reisling. You might enjoy keeping track of how your favorite varietals differ from region to region. You might even be surprised to discover you like a region more than you like a specific varietal.
9) Wine Travels for 2011
I’m looking forward to visiting Barcelona, Spain next spring. West of Barcelona is the Penedes region whose wines are now considered among Spain’s best.
10) Tastes for 2011
Having travelled to Russia and Hungary in the last couple of years and sampled their wine, I’m anxious to taste what I can of other Eastern European wines. I’m also curious about the wines of India and China.
Making Great Wine
John Davis
Wines and Vines, a leading wine industry publication, recently asked some top US vintners how they make great wine. Not surprisingly, just about all agreed that it’s critical to begin with the best possible grapes. The winemakers stressed the importance of developing a great working relationship with the vineyard managers, making lots in small quantities, keeping the cellars immaculately clean, and tasting the grapes in the field so as to pick at the right time. There were other sensible suggestions for making great wine, and one reminded me of a conversation I had with Warren Winiarski, one of Napa’s legendary wine makers.
This is a guy who knows how to make great wine. Winiarski is the founder of Napa Valley’s Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. He’s a Chicago native (my home town) who taught Political Science at the University of Chicago before entering the California wine business in the 1970s. His first vintage was submitted to the 1976 Paris Wine Tasting where legendary reds and whites of France were blind tasted against California cabernets and chardonnays. The judges were French. The American entrants bested the French in both categories sending shock waves around the wine world. Warren’s cabernet blend won for the reds giving Stag’s Leap instant international notoriety.
Warren Winiarski
I asked Warren how he was able to consistently make great wine over the years. I also posed the question whenever I ran into any of his employees, past and present. The answer is always the same: “Never leave anything to chance; have a reason for each wine making decision throughout the process.” Sounds pretty obvious and simplistic, but it’s apparently not easy to do day in and day out.
A few years ago Warren’s Stag’s Leap winery was sold for just under 200 million dollars. Not bad for a former Poly-Sci professor.
Kind regards,
John Davis, founder, Wine Insiders
Been “puckered” by a nice bottle of red?
John Davis - founder, Wine Insiders
You know that sensation. Right up in the front of your tongue. No doubt it’s the wine’s tannins which produced that astringent, mouth-puckering sensation. However, as Martha might say: ”That could be a good thing.”
Tannins are a group of organic compounds which occur in many plants and are extracted from grape skins, seeds and stems (if not removed) during the fermenting process. The longer the pressed juice remains in contact with the grape skins, the more tannin will be extracted. Tannins are also picked up from the barrels used to ferment and age both red and white wines. The newer the barrels the higher the amount of tannin.
Tannins act as an antioxidant enabling a wine to age gracefully as well as adding flavor, structure, texture and complexity. For long-lived wines such as Cabernet Sauvignons and Barolos tannins are essential. Their presence can make young red wines quite hard to the taste, even unpleasant. During the aging process the tannins break down allowing for a softer wine (less puckering).
However, just because a wine contains tannins there’s no guarantee that it will age well or be of a high quality. Like everything in winemaking, the goal is to impart the proper amount of tannins into the wine. Additionally, a wine requires the right amount of fruit flavor and acidity to harmonize with the tannins.
Getting all these components in balance is what they call the “the vintner’s art.”
Kind regards,
John Davis, founder Wine Insiders
Dances with Cows . . .
Else and Friend
Dancing cows? Yup! I’ve just seen dancing cows — and the bars weren’t even open.
All for a good cause, though it sure ain’t easy to get cows to dance for any reason. The occasion was an annual charity event, the Cow Ballet , which is held in the tiny hamlet of Peoa, Utah about an hour south –east of Salt Lake City. The setting is like a county fair with games, music and food in a scenic mountain locale. And, yes there is a wine connection. But first the cows . . .
A couple of friends (locals in the area) insisted that I haven’t “lived” until I experienced the “Cow Ballet.” “OK” but don’t tell me the punch line. I want to experience this thing through fresh eyes,” I asserted.
About a thousand generous souls each paid $10 to support the local free music organization and to enjoy the games, silent auction, brats and burgers and jug wine. A wacky MC warmed up the crowd with family-friendly contests, including a long jumping competition over cow pies. We had a theme.
Ultimately, it was time for the grand spectacle that folks had shelled out their good money to see. A half-dozen local celebs in custom-fitting cow outfits danced, hooted and pranced to a variety of “cow songs.” The audience hooted along as well to this devine silliness while the local big shots gleefully made delightful idiots of themselves.
Peoa Cow Ballet
It was a lovely sunny afternoon and all in good fun. The jug wine was superb. As I’ve said, wine is a subjective experience and it always tastes better when the company and surroundings are upbeat.
Kind regards,
John Davis, founder, Wine Insiders
Skiers and Vintners
Mike Douglas, Ingrid Backstrom, Elliot Davis
I recently wrote about my annual trip to Portillo, Chile where my teenage son, Elliot, attends a high-level ski camp organized by legendary mountaineer Chris Davenport and I get to sample some great local wines . It’s always a heady experience – spectacular ski runs, incomparable Chilean hospitality, top notch coaching plus world-class vino.
This year the skiing conditions were unusual. There was little snow, several days of dense fog and my son had the flu for the 1st few days. You’d think this was a recipe for an awful time. Interestingly, it wasn’t. The attitude of the ski coaches and their students was remarkably upbeat. The group went with the flow and did what they needed to do to have a fabulous time. They all enjoyed the camaraderie while kicking up their skiing skills. It was a great display of human resourcefulness and flexibility.
Was I surprised by the positive attitudes? Not really. I believe that seasoned skiers are quite similar to vintners both of whom are able to take whatever nature throws their way and make the best of it. Perhaps that’s why both vintners and skiers are an upbeat lot and fun to hang out with.
How were the Chilean wines that we enjoyed each evening? They were superb. Certainly the skier’s positive vibe influenced our perception of the wines, always a subjective experience, and added much to the pleasure.
Kind regards,
John Davis, founder, Wine Insiders
Chilean wine & Andean skiing
Dear Wine Insider,
I’m back from my annual trek down to Chile where my son attends a ski camp and where I also get to ski (strictly groomers) and drink some great Chilean wines. The camp is organized by ski legend Chris Davenport together with four other skiing greats who provide a week of high level coaching. The Andean slopes in that neck of the woods are quite steep and the goal is to acquire technical skills from these expert coaches. While I did not ski with these super stars, I did have the pleasure of dining with them while enjoying and discussing the local wines.
Chile has been producing wine for over 400 years, (twice as long as California) beginning with the Spanish missionaries who followed the conquistadors. The country is blessed with ideal growing conditions in many of its river valleys which flow westward from the Andes toward the Pacific.
I remember drinking Chilean wines in the 60s and found the whites to be oxidized and the reds full of rough tannins, the result of excessive barrel aging. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 years ago, the Chilean vintners decided to compete in the export market which resulted in much improved, value-priced offerings.
Ultimately, the Chileans decided that they could produce even better wines and they have. Their cabernet and cabernet blends are world class and their whites, (chardonnay and sauvignon blanc) are excellent.
I’m looking forward to sharing some of this year’s discoveries.
Kind regards,
John Davis, founder, Wine Insiders
California vs. European wines . . .
A friend who drinks California wines exclusively recently became curious about European wines. “What are the distinctions?, “ he asked. I knew my friend didn’t want to sign up for “Wine College.” Instead, he bought lunch while I tried to make the differences understandable.
As I explained, basically, there are two essential differences between California and European wines: How they taste and how they are labeled.
Generally, California wines are a bit more fruity, a touch higher in alcohol and slightly less acidic (tart) than their European cousins. All due to the differences in weather: European climates are cooler. Exceptions exist, but this is a good rule of thumb.
As far as what appears on the labels: With a few exceptions, California wines are named after their principal grape varieties, such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Merlot. This makes things relatively easy for consumers.
Europeans label differently. Their wines are named after the places where the vines grow: regions, towns, individual vineyards, etc. Since most European countries have laws designating which grapes can be planted (and only those grapes), in specific areas, if you know those laws you know which grape (or blends of grapes) are in the wines. This takes a while to learn and lots of consumers, including my friend, would rather not go through the trouble.
It probably helps to have a trusted advisor to help navigate this path.
Hope I’ve helped.
Kind regards,
John Davis, founder, Wine Insiders
A week with wolves
I don’t know what wolves have to do with wine. I suppose both are acquired tastes.
I’ve had a life-long “thing” about wolves, fantasizing about seeing them in the wild. In the early 90s I went camping in the Alaskan arctic which has an abundance of wolves. I never saw any and slept though the one night the local pack went a-howling, but I did get to see the northern lights, plenty of caribou and tons of tundra. My “wolf thing” went unsatisfied.
This brings me to my recent family stay at Howler’s Inn, a B & B in Bozeman, Montana which doubles as a wolf sanctuary. It’s run by a young couple who look after seven wolves, three of whom they hand -raised as pups. Each day our hosts ventured into the three acre enclosure to feed and groom these magnificent creatures. I got to pet a couple through the chain link fence, which was close enough. My favorite wolf was a 165 pound white male with a head the size of a grizzly who appeared to enjoy licking my fingers, an act of faith, at least on my part. Additionally, I got my howling fix twice each day.
While these wolves are habituated to humans and seem pleasant enough, I was cautioned that they are wild, which translates to: “Not good for house pets.” My hours spent observing them ultimately satisfied my “wolf-thing” and I’ll now return to musing about domesticated grapes.
Kind regards,
John Davis, founder, Wine Insiders
A Sardinian dinner in Tuscany . . .
Toasting with Mario
My college roommate’s neighbor, Mario, a Sardinian sheep farmer, hosted a festive evening which featured roasted wild boar and lots of Sardinian dishes paired with local wines.
Several long tables were patched together to accommodate the 30 guests which included the host’s family, Sardinian neighbors and friends of my college pal. It was a joyful experience – very uninhibited – filled with great affection, warmth and uncommon hospitality.
After introductions, including hugs and kisses (both cheeks), we toasted with a Sardinian aperitif, which we were warned to “sample.” During the next hour the guests arrived including a woman who runs a local 5 star hotel, her retired banker husband who is an American blues aficionado, local sheep farmers and a couple with a new-born.
Mario's Tuscan house
The guests were quite animated and there was an infectious gaiety in the room. Strangers quickly became comfortable with each other. I wondered if it’s the isolated, rugged beauty of Tuscany that encourages the best in human nature.
The wine was delicious– a local red in unlabeled liter bottles. I’ve had similar wine like this in Italy – no more than 6 months old from the last harvest. Very fresh, certainly no preservatives, no filtering or any modern winemaking techniques. Just pure fermented grape juice with an alcoholic content of 9-10% at most. The wine went down easily and paired wonderfully well with the wild boar. A succulent welcome to Tuscany.
Kind regards,
John Davis, founder, Wine Insiders
Tuscan Travels #1
With artist Herbert Murrie in Siena, Italy
Finally got to Italy to visit my college roommate, the artist Herbert Murrie, following the volcanic ash holdup.
Beyond Magnificent . . .
That’s what I thought when I first viewed the landscape surrounding my college pal’s restored Tuscan farm house. The topography is spectacular – 360 degrees of steep valleys formed 10,000 years ago by receding glaciers separated by hillside dotted with antique stone farm houses. This unique area is known as Crete Siena. Here you won’t find the traditional gentle hills covered with wheat, poppy, sun-flowers and vineyards which have made Tuscany a tourist magnet. This craggy terrain is covered mostly with grasses – ideal for raising sheep .
Many of the local shepherds are Sardinians who migrated from their Mediterranean island in response to severe drought conditions following WWII. Tending sheep in these steep hills is strenuous work, but the 300 Sardinian families that live there are hardy folks. It’s worth noting that despite massive efforts by the German military their small island was never conquered – a tribute to Sardinian tenacity and courage.
Crete Siena
Mario, my friend’s neighbor (next hill over) is one of those Sardinian shepherds who welcomed me with a festive dinner featuring wild boar roasted in a huge outdoor brick oven. We began the evening with Mirto, a volatile liqueur, distilled from the oil of the Myrtle tree which is native to the Sardinian coast. While provided a warm, hearty greeting, it didn’t do much for my jet lag.
Move Tuscan adventures to follow…
Kind regards,
John Davis, founder, Wine Insiders
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